Wednesday, May 16, 2018

May 16: Ready to Tackle the Nullarbor!

When I was in Streaky Bay, everyone who talked about Ceduna only had bad things to say. They made it out to seem that Ceduna was a hotbed of crime. People only came to Ceduna to get parts for their caravans, or stock up for the Nullarbor. Nobody talked to anyone. Well, as usual, I have not found that to be the case at all. I’ve talked to many people in the caravan park and the town. In fact, I’ve found Ceduna to be one of my favorite places. The town is compact, and easy to walk around. It’s clean and has everything one could need. It even has an outdoor shop with bike stuff. I went to add some air to my rear tire (something that hasn’t been done since Maria Island off Tassie), and discovered my bike pump was nonfunctional. This one part (a small little coiled hose) had basically disintegrated. I went to the outdoor shop, and was able to get a new pump. Most amazing of all was that it only cost $10.99! And, it’s not crap either! Anyway, I’ve found all the trash talk about Ceduna to be unfounded.


This morning my new friend, Steve, and I went to the Foodland. He was getting stuff for the rest of his trip with his friend and breakfast. I got a backpack full of food for the Nullarbor (trip one, I later went back for another backpack full). The idea is to carry as much food as possible. While there are places to get food along the Nullarbor, it will be wildly expensive, and the selection will be limited. So, I will be starting my trek across the Nullarbor with the following:


Breakfast:

12 sachets of oatmeal

20 sachets of hot cocoa

A big bag of granola

2 bananas (it’s hard to carry many...besides, I can’t carry fruit and veggies across the border into Western Australia)

Bag of raisins

Bag of diced apricots


Lunch/Snacks:

1 jar of peanut butter

1 jar of Nutella 

1 jar of jam

Trail mix

Fruit and nut Dairy Milk Bar 

Jelly beans

3 Snickers

2 Cherry Ripe Bars

3 granola bars

Small packet of crackers


Dinner:

6 cans of chicken

3 cans of beans

18 tortillas

6 pouches of rice

Parmesan cheese

Cheddar cheese block


The panniers are full full full! Of course this won’t last me all the way across, but it should be pretty good. I’ll supplement as necessary from the roadhouses.


I watched Steve pack up his stuff. He gave me a pair of bike shorts that he didn’t wear as they didn’t really fit him well. I tried them on, and they fit me just fine. Might be good for some of the longer days. As I’ve said, I think the lack of bike shorts has limited my ability to go longer distances (or, more accurately, ride for a longer time).


After Steve was all packed up, we went to the bakery. He treated me to a juice and pastry. I’m sure we will keep in touch. He just lives in Vancouver, BC. He has made my stay in Ceduna quite enjoyable. 


So, food has been gathered, laundry has been done, friends have been made, and I feel ready to tackle the Nullarbor!


Steve’s campsite (even though Steve said I could put his photo on my blog, and therefore Facebook, I’m respecting his desire to not have his photo on Facebook)


The Foreshore and jetty of Ceduna


Tuesday, May 15, 2018

May 15: The Longest Day, Butt It Was Fine!

A little update from last night is in order. My camping neighbor, Ian, was also a cyclist. We chatted for a bit, then he offered me some fish for dinner that he was going to be cooking up. I said sure. Well, it wasn’t just fish, it was also pasta salad and tomato too. I contributed some chocolate for dessert. We had fun cooking on the BBQ with parchment paper (a new thing for Ian...the parchment paper). Ian was pretty funny. He had a very dry sense of humor. He is from New South Wales, and is driving to Perth to visit his sons. I have to say, about half the time I had no idea what he was saying. I’ve gotten pretty good with most of the Aussie vernacular, but sometimes the accent still throws me. Every time a person would walk by, he would say, “Hey Champ, how ya goin’?” Then when they answered, he would ask where they were from. Then, there was a camp trailer parked across from us (between us and the water). He said he wished he had a bazooka so he could blast that trailer because it was blocking his view. Then he thought maybe he could push it into the water, but he didn’t think that would do much to improve his view. Funny guy...


I planned to get going early because I was hoping to make it to Ceduna which was 111kms. I ended up leaving at 7:45. So much for the early start. But, I also had an out. I could go only as far as Smoky Bay if I wanted, then have a short day into Ceduna. Ian was going to Smoky Bay (he was bypassing Ceduna altogether). I decided I would see how I was doing when I got to the turn for Smoky Bay.


There was really no wind to speak of at first. The terrain was a continuation of yesterday’s gradual ups and downs. I stopped for a break at the turn for Perludie. I could look back and see Streaky Bay. 


I stopped about 15kms further up the road at another rest stop. There was a trailer pulled in (a smoke break for the guy). We chatted for a bit, then we both continued on. 


I started to notice I was going along at a pretty good clip...22-25kms/hour. Even up the hills I wasn’t slowing down much. Ah, at last, a tailwind! This was looking promising for making it to Ceduna!


I got to the turn for Smoky Bay at noon. I was feeling pretty good. I decided to go for Ceduna. I had taken the best possible actions to make it the least uncomfortable...liberal use of chamois cream, wool capris instead of my pants, and my most comfortable undies. And, it worked! Of course, what really helped was the wind. I arrived in Ceduna at 2:45 after 111kms in 6 hours of ride time.


I made one stop at an outdoor shop to get another fuel canister. My fuel isn’t out yet, but I doubt I’ll be able to get more fuel on the Nullarbor. Then I went on to the Caravan Park. In the office, I met another cyclist named Steve who has just finished his tour from Perth to Ceduna. We ended up going to dinner together, and he shared with me his experiences with the Nullarbor. He said it was really great, but he had a headwind many of the days (hoping that continues, because that will be a tailwind for me). He said I will really enjoy it. We had a great time talking about our tours, and just how great traveling by bike is. Tomorrow his friend is picking him up, and they will go inland. He gets to go to Uluru. I’m totally jealous!


Tomorrow I will stay here in Ceduna. I need to stock up on as much food as I can, and do my laundry. I don’t know how much WiFi there will be (if any) across the Nullarbor. So, if you don’t see any posts for awhile (It might take me about 18 days to get across to Norseman), it’s probably just because I have no WiFi. Even maybe not until Esperance which is a couple days beyond Norseman.


Sunset in Streaky Bay


Streaky Bay in the distance


Back to the Eyre Highway


Only 5kms to go!


Tree full of Galahs in Ceduna





Sunday, May 13, 2018

May 12, 13, and 14

May 12: Back to the Coast


Today was 92kms from Lock to Elliston. I have now traversed the Eyre Peninsula, and am back to the Coast. It’s taking longer and longer for the sun to come up in the morning. This morning, I got dressed, and packed up with my headlamp on. Fortunately, the Laundry room (which I repurposed as a camp kitchen) had a light. I heated water for my breakfast with my stove. I’m still on the same fuel cartridge that I started with, but I’m thinking I may have to get another one in Ceduna. Hopefully, I can get a small one.


I was on the road earlier than usual, at 7:20, but there was no reason to hang around in Lock. Plus, the wind was minimal that early. There was also zero traffic. It being Saturday probably had something to do with the no traffic.


The land today was mostly fields of rocks. Some enterprising folks had made walls of the rocks, but I’m not sure what exactly they were walling in (looked like more rocks to me). There was one really big rock, okay, it was more like a mountain. I think it was called Mount Wedge.


I made up a bit of a song about the wildlife I spotted today. It’s to the tune of the 12 Days of Christmas, but it’s only part of the song (I didn’t see THAT much wildlife!). It goes like this (starting with the 5 Golden Rings part):


Five hours of riding

Four green and yellow parrots

Three kangaroos

Two non-native deer

And an emu running through the bush


So, really, I saw 6 green and yellow parrots, but I didn’t see the last two until I’d already made up the song. I also saw a gazillion gallahs. A whole flock flew right over my head. If only I’d had my camera ready! I did get a photo of the deer. Also, these funny doves at the caravan park in Elliston.


The wind wasn’t too bad until about 20kms out from Elliston. The road turned more into the wind, thus making it harder. However, once I went up a rather lengthy climb, it was downhill to the Flinders Hwy, and the wind was behind me into Elliston.


I expected a bigger town (I don’t know why). Since it’s Saturday, the one and only grocery shut at 12:00. Oh well, I didn’t really need anything. This caravan park has a decent kitchen. When I checked in, I told the guy I’d like to be close to the kitchen. I don’t think I could be much closer without actually being IN the kitchen! Plus my tent is set up out of the wind (sort of) behind the rainwater tank. 


I walked down to the beach. It’s all limestone, and therefore pretty interesting looking. The Bay is nice, there’s even a swimming dock, but it’s way too cold now for that. 


The sunset was nice, but there is a nasty looking bank of clouds off shore. Could be rain a comin’. Tomorrow will likely be a shortish day to Port Kenny. It’s either 60kms to Port Kenny, or 137 to Streaky Bay. If I had a really strong tailwind, I could maybe make Streaky Bay, but I doubt it.


See the deer?

Mount Wedge, an apt name.

The Bay at Elliston.

Doves a struttin’ 

Goodnight from Elliston

Right next to the camp kitchen!

May 13: An Altogether Great Mother’s Day!


Well, no rain! It was really not a bad day weather wise. I started out late as I didn’t have far to go, just the 60kms to Port Kenny, buuuutttt...I didn’t go to Port Kenny, and I ended up riding 76kms.


Oh, I had plans to go to Port Kenny all the time I was riding, but first, how about this day? I started out by seeing 4 kangaroos. It looked like a mama and three progressively smaller joeys. First they were up on the hill, then they came down and hopped across the road. It was the mama first, then the next smaller, then the next smaller, then finally the smallest one. I really wish I’d been able to get a photo of them going across the road. It was so cute! Then, later, I saw 5 more kangaroos. They were lounging in the field. 


The weirdest thing I saw today was 3 cats. They weren’t all together. I saw them one at a time throughout the ride. There was nothing around, so they must have been feral cats. Since that means they are wild, I shall let them play in the wildlife spotting games. Still, the kangaroos won today. When I told the lady in the caravan park office about the cats, she said the feral cat population increases when the mouse population increases. Right now, with the lack of rain, the mouse population is pretty high. I’d say it’s good to have the cats!


The reason today was longer than expected was because I rode out to the Talia Caves. Well, actually, I just rode out to one of the caves. It was about 6kms down a bumpy dirt road to the first cave, Woolshed Cave. The caves are limestone that’s been eroded away by the ocean. It was pretty cool scenery, and worth the extra 12 kms. See the photos below.


My original itinerary had me going to Venus Bay—not Port Kenny. But, Venus Bay was off the Flinders Hwy about 4kms, and Port Kenny was on the Hwy. as I was counting down the kilometers to Port Kenny, I came to the turn off for Venus Bay. As I went by, I thought to myself, I bet the caravan park in Port Kenny is going to be like the one in Cleve (just behind the roadhouse). I turned around and went to Venus Bay. 


I’m so glad I changed my mind! Venus Bay has been one of my favorite campsites. I think most of the people here are here to fish, but the view is great and the people are very nice. The guy next to me introduced himself (Paul) right when I got here. Later, we sat and chatted for awhile.


When I went to fix my dinner, there were two couples cooking up a fish fry from today’s catch of King George Whiting, some calimari, prawns, chips, and salad. They asked if I needed to use the BBQ. I said no, I was just going to have some tortillas with cheese (I had eaten a big late lunch when I got here). They told me to put it away, and come join them for the fish fry. So I did. Michael and Robin, and Peter and Bette are from Brisbane. Michael said they come here every year and fish. I had the best evening with them! And the food was great too!


Tomorrow should be about the same distance as today to Streaky Bay, so no need for an early start. 


Go Roos go!


The walkway down to Woolshed Cave


Woolshed Cave


The mighty Southern Ocean


My Venus Bay campsite


Huge pelicans!


May 14: Happy Birthday to Connor!


I was hoping to see 24 kangaroos in honor of Connor’s 24th Birthday. Things were going good when I had seen 11 before I had even gone 11kms. Sadly, I didn’t see anymore after that bunch. Maybe tomorrow (when it is Connor’s Birthday at home) I’ll see 13 more.


The ride today was fairly uneventful. I passed by the turn for Murphy’s Haystacks, but saw them from a distance later from the road.


They are rocks (not hay).


I also stopped at a rest stop called Eyre’s Waterhole. It’s a well that supplied water for the explorers. There was actually some water in it.


Eyre’s Waterhole


I’m in Streaky Bay now. Again my campsite is on the shore. It’s a nice sunny day.



Tomorrow is a long day to Ceduna. Hopefully the wind will be favorable.














Thursday, May 10, 2018

May 11: Things That Amuse Me Whilst Riding Amongst Fields of Stubble

I must admit, today was not such an exciting day. However, I did see two kangaroos (Were they the same ones as yesterday??? Probably not.), so that’s a plus. This part of the Eyre Peninsula is still mostly grain fields, and because it is going into winter, they’re all stubble. 

I was excited to actually have a town to go through today instead of just going from one town to the next. I was even so hopeful as to think there might be a bakery in Rudall. Sadly, no. There was nothing but some grain silos and a few houses. Oh well, it was something different to look at for a brief moment as I cruised through. 

There was one roadside rest stop along the way which I, of course, pulled into. I’ve noticed these signs in many of the rest stops. Must be an attempt to educate drivers, albeit in an unusual place as there are no crossings nearby.

But...there are no trains around? Just reading material, I guess.

By far my biggest amusement for the day was watching how long a fly could ride on my handlebar bag. It hung out there so long that I named him Jeff (you know...Jeff Goldblum...not any of my Jeff friends). He started out in a good protected spot in the middle of the lid behind the map case. Then when the road curved to the left, and into the wind a bit more, his wings started to flutter, and he moved a bit toward the right edge. Then the road curved back out of the direct wind and he settled down. As we continued our journey down the road, I wondered if he knew he was getting further and further away from home (do flies have homes???). Perhaps he was on holiday? Anyway, he kept hanging on for about 5kms or so. Every once in awhile the wind would catch his wings and he would hunker down to stay on. He was inching ever closer to the edge, and I told him so. A vehicle was coming toward us, and when it passed, I waved. When I looked down to see if Jeff was still there, he was gone. I hope he likes where he ended up. Maybe he’ll settle down in a new home, or maybe he’ll hitch a ride back the other way...

I rolled into the whopping metropolis of Lock around 1:00. I know that seems early, but the next town is 91kms away, and I had gone 75, so here I stay. I cruised the town after seeing where the caravan park was located. On the sign for the park it said to pay at the Post Office. I headed over there and the lady asked me if I had a Concession. A Concession is a reduced rate for senior citizens. I told her I wasn’t from Australia. She asked my age and said she would give me the Concession rate ($10.00 vs $12.00). I thought that was nice of her.

The Lock Caravan Park also has limited amenities (as in, no kitchen—they always have hot showers and laundry). I may find something to eat tonight as there isn’t much shelter to cook out of the wind. 

I am, again, at the library. This library has some fun artwork out front.

Nice and colorful!

Also, yesterday, I took this photo of one of the school buses. They look more like coach buses. Nice way to ride to school!
They are not always yellow. Sometimes they are white.


Here’s my campsite for tonight. I have the entire place to myself (so far). It’s just across from the grain silos.





Wednesday, May 9, 2018

May 9 and 10

May 9: My Butt is Tired!


Today was the longest day so far at 104km. Ordinarily, I wouldn’t think 104km was all that terrible, and today wasn’t terrible, but it’s when there is nothing to stop for (except those times when I just have to take a break). It’s kind of like going out for a ride at home. I just do the ride, then I’m done. Nothing special to do along the way. I also think the fact that I’m not wearing padded bike shorts is limiting my seat tolerance. Although, 6:42 of ride time is more than enough, even with bike shorts!


To back up a bit, I had a very nice evening chatting with my neighbors, Graham (or is it Graeme?), Christine, John, and Karen. They are from Queensland, and are touring in their caravans. Karen even made me a mug of hot chocolate! 


I wanted an early start this morning because I knew I had the long distance to go. I left shortly after 7:30. One advantage to starting earlier is that I get about an hour before the traffic (and trucks) starts to pick up. It’s quite quiet for that first hour. Although, the trucks weren’t very numerous today.


I pulled in to every rest stop to take a short break and eat something. The last one was pretty nasty with flies. I took out a granola bar, and ate it while I was riding.


The terrain was pretty good today. Lots of rollers which kept me happy with the downhills. At least I feel like I’m making good progress when I have periods of time where I can get over 20km/hour.


Today the emus won the spotting game at 6 (including a couple of juveniles). Kangaroos and Foxes tied at 1 each (although, if one were to count the dead kangaroos, the number would be much higher). I had just passed a sign with a picture of an emu when I glanced over and saw six of them hightailing it away. I wasn’t able to get a photo. Later, I had just passed a big dead kangaroo, when I saw a big grey boinging along. It was very fast. Again, no photo. As for the fox, I had stopped to take a little jellybean break and the fox went loping across the road a little ways in front of me. Alas, no photo there either.


After spending the last 15km or so seeming to do more standing up to pedal (to get my butt off the saddle) than sitting down, I rolled into Cowell. It’s not a big town, but it seems to have all the necessary things. There are two pubs/restaurants. 


At the caravan park, the lady gave me an unpowered site, but said I could set up in the recreation area where there is more shelter. According to the weather report, big wind is a comin’! It’s projected to start tonight and blow all day tomorrow—45 to 60kms/hour from the south/southwest. If that does indeed happen, I’m staying put tomorrow. There is no use trying to ride as I am heading south. It’s possible I could get stuck here for 3 nights. Hopefully, it will blow itself out tomorrow. 


Well, look, another straight road!

May 10: Changing My Route


Last night I was pondering what to do in light of the weather, mainly the wind. Continuing toward Port Lincoln was going to be an exercise in agony as I would be going directly into the heavy wind. I thought I would stay in Cowell. That would have been okay except the wind is not going to change much over the next few days. In fact, rain was going to join the party too. So, what to do...


This morning, I looked at my map and saw I could cut directly across the peninsula. It’s called the Birds Eye Highway. Cleve was just 42km from Cowell. Even with a strong crosswind, I could manage 42km. Plus, it looked to be a pretty quiet road. By the time I made my decision to give up on Port Lincoln, and packed up, it was 9:45. The wind was blowing pretty good.


I had a brief thought of changing my mind and going to Arno Bay (on the way to Port Lincoln). But when the road came around the corner, and headed directly south (just before I turned west on the Birds Eye Hwy), and I was blasted by the wind, I knew I had made the right decision. 


It wasn’t an easy ride to Cleve. It was still very windy, but the road headed up into the hills, and was somewhat protected at times. I really didn’t mind going up the hills. It’s much better going slow going up, than going slow on the flat. And, of course, I also got to come down some too. My mood was much better than the day into Port Augusta. It really is all a mental game. Today I knew I would be going slow (it helped that it was only 42km), and I was okay with that. 


I was just about to give up on there being any wildlife spotting game today, but just 10km out of Cleve, two kangaroos went hopping across the road. They tried to pad their numbers by hopping back across the road a few meters later, but they didn’t fool me. I could tell they were the same ones. Besides, they won by forfeit as no other wildlife showed up to be counted. If sheep were allowed to play, they would win easily.


The caravan park here in Cleve is pretty limited. I’m not sure there is a kitchen, but there are toilets and showers. It’s connected to the Birds Eye Roadhouse, so if I don’t want to cook I don’t have to.


Rainbow this morning in Cowell

Abandoned house in the hills

A little art to go with my tent

Buzz, my neighbor

Get it? (Birdseye Roadhouse)






Monday, May 7, 2018

May 8: A Day For Emu Spotting

Well, today was a much better day than yesterday! The wind wasn’t a tailwind, but what wind there was was pretty light. I did take a couple of photos yesterday. Here’s one.

Mt. Remarkable 

I stayed last night at one of the Discover Parks Caravan Park. Usually they are quite expensive (as caravan parks go), but this one was just $20. I saw a couple that I had talked to at Port Germein. They had passed me and felt very sorry for me having to battle the wind. By the time I finished yesterday, I had gone 71km with 6 1/2 hours of ride time—that’s not so good. 

I also met Bill and Katerina. It was great to talk to them last night. They are headed to the center of the country. This morning I met a French couple. The woman’s name was Coline, which is sort of the French version of my name.

Just after turning onto the Eyre Highway, I saw this large number of kangaroos. 

Looking at the barbed wire fence, I think they might have been prisoners. Later I saw some free roos.

A little further down the road I spotted these two emus. These were the first of 7 emus I saw today.


It was 74km to Whyalla where I am going to stay tonight (I’m currently at the library). Here’s a couple of photos from the road.

Heading directly west for a bit.

Hey, there’s a hill!

I rolled I to Whyalla around one. I stopped at the Visitor Center to pick up a map of the town so I could find the grocery store and the library. They are always so nice in the Visitor Centers.

Whyalla is a steelworks town. I’m guessing many people work in the steelworks plant. It’s a good sized town on Spencer Gulf (the other side from the last four port towns—in fact, according to the map, I’m directly across the gulf from Port Germein).

Part of the steelworks plant.

Now, I shall find my way to the caravan park. Today was a good day for a bike ride, and a good day for emu spotting!






Sunday, May 6, 2018

May 4-7: Port Hopping

May 4: A Long Day Out of Adelaide 


I actually did get a butt-crack of dawn start this morning. I was up before daylight (I had warned my dorm mates that I would be leaving early). The gal in the bunk below me got up and actually helped me carry my bags downstairs. I feel bad because I never got her name. She was Asian, and her English was not the best, but she was very sweet. Megan, the other gal (a student who comes to Adelaide for classes on Thursday and Friday, then goes back to a farm in New South Wales for the rest of the week—its a 4 hour bus ride every week!), was still asleep when I left. 


I left the hostel at 6:45. It was just getting light. Before too long, the traffic really picked up. Just like entering Adelaide, it was a long time getting out to the countryside. There was a bike lane on the A1 all the way until the turn to St. Kilda. That’s like having a bike lane on the freeway! Once the official bike lane went away, there was no shoulder, but much of the traffic had exited onto the motorway. Still, there were big trucks with signs on the back that said “Road Train”. Most of them didn’t seem any different than the trucks that said “Long Vehicle”. There was the occasional triple trailer. Eventually there was a shoulder again. 


I had stopped at a truck stop about 20km out of Adelaide, but then didn’t stop again until the town of Dublin at 61km. There I had some lunch. I didn’t stop much because there was nothing to stop for. It was flat wide open space, and the wind was WSW, which was sometimes okay, and other times not so great. Over 97.8km, my average was 16.8. I didn’t think that was too bad. 


I made one more stop at one of those rest areas. This one would not have been a good place to camp unless I absolutely had to. There was no way to be hidden (it bordered a military area that was fenced completely).


Due to my early start, I rolled into Port Wakefield about 1:45. I was ready to be done, though. Tonight’s camping is only $10. The camp kitchen is okay, but no cooktop. There is a microwave and a kettle. Port Wakefield is on the Gulf of St. Vincent. On the other side of the Gulf is the Yorke Peninsula. I kind of wish I had planned to do the Peninsula. There is a cycling route around the Peninsula, but it would add more than 500km. Instead, I will go to Port Broughton.


Long flat road

Port Wakefield

May 5: Traversing the Yorke 


Today I traversed the northern part of the Yorke Peninsula. The first 17km was flat, but with a headwind. I could see the climb ahead for quite some time. I was actually happy to finally start climbing. It wasn’t that bad. At the top I stayed along the ridge doing rolling hills. The wind was no longer a headwind, so I made good time. I was rolling by harvested wheat fields. I passed a couple of unique sights. 


The story about these toilets is that the guy who lives in the house, replaced his toilet, and set the old one out by the road. As time went on, people would bring their old toilets and leave them there. Now, as you can see, there is quite the collection.


Cream Puff Corner even had a sign about it.


I rode through Bute. Since I was about 43km into the day, I thought it would be a good place to stop for a snack and a break. At first it seemed like nothing was open, but I saw a guy go into a small grocery store. Ah ha! I pulled in and sure enough, it was open. 


I had been told there were two caravan parks in Port Broughton. The one to go to was NOT Port Broughton Caravan Park. So, when I got to the town, I followed the signs to the  Port Broughton Bayside Caravan Park. When I arrived, there was a sign that said “Find a site, Caretaker will call”. So, I rode around, but didn’t really see anything that looked like a vacant site. In fact, the majority of the park is permanent caravans. There was just a small area where there were some non-permanent caravans. I asked a guy what the deal was. He said the owner is out, but I could just set up my tent by his caravan. Well, okay...


The showers didn’t require a key, so that was fine (although Sean said they would find one for me if that was necessary). I set everything up, took a shower, and spent the early afternoon talking to Sean. Later we went to the other end of the park where there is a big shed with a big flat screen TV, and where all the permanent residents gather in the evening to watch the Footie game. I met everyone (Michael, Roger 4, Basil, Roger 2, Doug, Annette, Raylene, and Sean of course). We had a nice evening. They asked me lots of questions, and I learned more about the rules of Footie. They heated up a pan of little beef pies. The way to eat them was to stick the nozzle of the ketchup bottle into the pie, and squeeze some ketchup in (only they don’t call it ketchup, it’s “sauce”). They were tasty.


At about 7:00 I said my goodbyes and goodnights. Although I wasn’t that hungry, I made a peanut butter and Nutella tortilla. 


Tomorrow, Sean wants to try riding Tilmann fully loaded. I’ll have to take photos.


Wheat stubble, and one lone tree

Commode row

Cream Puff Corner

Sean and me

May 6: Onto Another Port


Today was about 85km from Port Broughton to Port Pirie to Port Germein. The wind was not in my favor getting to Port Pirie. At times I was struggling to do 12km/hour. I took one pee break, and planned to take a longer break, but the flies were awful, so I kept going. That was a mistake. I arrived in Port Pirie at about 12:15. As I rolled through the town, I saw there was a Subway on the Main Rd. I found it, but had to wait in line a bit. I was starting to get lightheaded. By the time I got to pay, I was leaning on the counter, and things were going dark. I grabbed my sandwich, and sat down at the nearest table. It took a few bites before I was able to get up and get something to drink. But, once I finished my lunch, I was fine, and ready to continue on to Port Germein. Funny thing about Port Pirie. Both in Port Wakefield and Port Broughton people had told me Port Pirie was shit (their words). I thought the town looked pretty nice. It was definitely a bigger town than the other two (and Port Germein too). Maybe they were just jealous...


Sean, at Port Broughton, told me it was about 30km from Port Pirie to Port Germein. Actually, it was more like 20. That was good because I was back on the A1, and the shoulder was crap. There was too much traffic to play my game of riding in the lane, then getting over to the bumpy shoulder when a vehicle was coming. Good thing it wasn’t too far. Plus, the wind was better.


Port Germein has the distinction of having the longest wooden jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s 1 1/2km long. I wasn’t going to walk out to the end, but you know how that goes. Walk a bit, then walk a bit more, then next thing you know, you are at the end. I walked about halfway before I even got to the water. The tide goes out a very long way (hence the need for a long jetty). The water is the Spencer Gulf. Tomorrow, I will get to my 5th Port (counting Pirie)—Port Augusta. That will be the last Port for a few days (even though I will be continuing to follow the coast around to the other side of Spencer Gulf).


The old lighthouse


Walking toward the jetty


Long way out there


At the end


Southern Flinders Range


Sunset on Spencer Gulf


May 7: Long Hard Day to Port Augusta


There will be no photos for this day as I am currently at the library, and haven’t downloaded the paltry few photos I took today. Today was just 68km, but it was the longest 68km. The head wind was absolutely awful. I even took the brim off my helmet. There’s not much else to say about this day. I’m tired, and I need to get on to the caravan park. I am hoping, as I will be going south tomorrow, that the wind will be in my favor.