Day 42--Connor Says, "That's Why You Never Quit on a Bad Day"

What a difference a day makes! I could have used that for a title, but I think I've already used that. But, it would work for today too.

It was cold as usual this morning, frozen water (except the bottle in my tent), but I slept warm, and that's all that matters. We had some company this morning.

The cows were asking if they could come where we were. No, we told them, no cow poop allowed!

I told Derik my new plan for the day was to be pessimistic. I'd tried optimism yesterday, and that didn't work, so today...pessimism. To get to where we were camped, we had to go through a gate, and down a steep hill. Connor had taken MC down for me yesterday. Since I was pretty much ready to go, I took the bags up first, then pushed MC back up myself. 

We were back on the road by about 9:45. The wind wasn't blowing yet, but it was only a matter of time (remember...pessimism). We had about 13.5 miles to get to Aspen Alley. This is one of the highlights of the Divide. It's a mile long section of narrow road that is bordered by...you guessed it, Aspen trees. But, before we even got there, we were finally back into the trees. We were still climbing similar to yesterday, but the guys stayed with me, and there were TREES!!! TREES TREES TREES!!! 

TREES!!!

I was so happy to be riding amongst trees again, that I totally forgot to be pessimistic. Even when we got to Aspen Alley, and the leaves were pretty much gone, I didn't care. Besides, it was still really pretty!

Not quite as colorful, but beautiful in its own way. It was after noon, so I suggested we have lunch among the Aspens. 

There were even logs to sit on!

Looking up.

After lunch I had Derik take this one.

Riding through Aspen Alley.

We had another mile to go before we got to Highway 70. Then we were on pavement until we entered Colorado. That's right, we are finally done with Wyoming! Fortunately, as we were riding, Wyoming was looking more like Colorado (instead of, for example, when you come from Kansas into Colorado, Colorado looks more like Kansas). There was no "Welcome to Colorful Colorado" sign, so we stopped at the post office sign in Slater.

Gotta have proof, you know!

Just after the PO, we were back on gravel. We were trying to get to Brush Mountain Lodge. We had another 12 or 13 miles to go, and 1000 ft of climbing. Derik was thinking we might not make it (now who's the pessimist???). However, it turned out to be not too bad. There was one 1/2 mile section that was very steep. Connor and I traded bikes. He rode MC up the hill, and I walked his bike. I could have ridden it up (because it's so much lighter), but I couldn't reach the pedals. Still, I walked up about as fast as I probably could have ridden MC up. 

A few miles later, we made it to the lodge. We were worried it was going to be closed. Well, it is. But, Kirsten said we could camp out back. Then...she goes on to say there are towels for showers, dinner will be ready soon, and there is breakfast in the morning!!! I couldn't believe it! I gave her a hug right then and there!

We got set up, took showers, and hung out in the lodge until dinner was ready. It was spaghetti, salad, garlic bread, watermelon, and chocolate chip cookies. Absolutely delicious! There were quite a few people for dinner. Kirsten's parents are visiting, as are her sister, brother-in-law, and nephew. Then there were various others who seem to work here or live nearby. We enjoyed talking to Hunter, a young kid from Michigan, who's been here about a week and a half working. Kirsten couldn't be nicer! We are so lucky to get to be part of the Brush Mountain Lodge family for the night!

Connor and George.

So, yesterday is but a bad memory, and as Connor says, "That's why you never quit on a bad day!"

Day 41--I Had a Plan...or, So Much For My Plan...or, I Need a New Plan!

Let's face it, the last few days have been pretty hard. I've struggled with riding alone all day, and the mileages have been pretty high. So, this morning when we set out from the KOA, I had a plan. Simply, I was just going to ride my own ride. Meaning, if I was hungry, I'd stop for a snack. If I was tired, I'd take a break. I wouldn't continue to ride until I caught up to the guys before taking a break. It was going great! I stopped for a snack after about 10 miles. It was perfect. At one point, when I caught up to the guys, I suggested to Connor that we take turns drafting. He turned on his music, and we switched off every song. That worked okay for awhile, but I asked Connor if it was harder to wait long periods of time for me to catch up, or go slow with me. He said it was harder to go slow. I told him he didn't have to ride with me, he could go on ahead. He has to ride his own ride too.

The scenery was similar, from a vegetation standpoint, to what we had been riding through the last few days. But, there were more mountains and rock formations.

The wind, which had been pretty calm at first, picked up substantially once we got to the top of the first climb out of Rawlins. Of course, it was a headwind. But, I was riding my own ride. It was okay...at first.

At about noon, Derik said he would start looking for a place for lunch about 12:45. I reminded him, unnecessarily, that his 12:45 was not my 12:45. He said he'd done the math, and had it figured out. So, off we went. As I was riding, I figured he would probably stop at a spot where there was an informal campsite next to a creek. Sure enough, that's where they were. 

It was after lunch that my plan didn't go so well. It did at first, but as time went on, it started to fall apart. First of all, there was a 6 mile climb. Secondly, it was into a nasty headwind. Thirdly, there was a lot of traffic. A short distance into the climb, I started taking a short break (10-15 seconds) every quarter mile. For the first part of the climb it was working pretty well. I even took a couple of pictures.

That's not the top in the distance.

Then, the wind was really starting to get to me. The climb itself would not have been that bad were it not for the wind. It was constant and demoralizing. Finally, there was just one more part to go. Unfortunately, at the Divide crossing, it wasn't a nice long descent. In fact, it was just a little down, then more up. One part was so nasty with the wind and steepness, that I finally had to walk. My plan had completely fallen apart at that point. The tears were running as I trudged up the hill. Fortunately, I had sunglasses on because a guy in a pickup stopped to tell me not to let "those guys" slow me down, and that I was almost at the top. 

I caught up to the guys and told them I wanted to go home. I've never wanted to quit and go home on any tour, but I have had enough. I can't do it anymore. It's not fun. 

It was obvious we weren't going to make it to our planned destination for the night. There was a primitive campsite about 6 more miles. The guys rode slow so I could draft as much as possible. We came down to where there was a good creek. It's fenced, but there was a gate. That meant no cow poop! We decided to call it a day. I think we are about 13 miles short. Turns out Connor was tired and didn't want to go all the way to the planned stop either. 

I don't know what the plan is for tomorrow. What I do know is that when we get to Steamboat Springs, I need to decide if I'm really done. If so, I'll need to figure out how to get home. We'll see what happens...maybe the wind will stop and the riding will be enjoyable again. It sure isn't any fun now!

Day 40--Wild Horses!

We started with a 14 mile section of headwinds this morning. Connor was nice enough to stay with me (Derik started out after us, but caught up and rode with us). As we were riding along, I was thinking this was the last chance to see the wild horses of the Great Basin. Then I saw some horse poo. Where there's horse poo... Sure enough, there were the horses!

They were kind enough to run across the road in front of us!

Then they stopped so we could take another photo. Antelope could take a lesson from horses!

After the 14 miles, we were on pavement the remainder of the ride into Rawlins. The 25 miles to the highway were pretty good as there was a really good tailwind. My overall average for the day was 10.6 which is pretty good for me.

Yesterday, my face got wind burned. Today I took measures to prevent that.

It's still too windy for the Da Brim.

Once I got to the highway, we ate lunch sitting in the dirt behind some sagebrush to block the wind a bit. I've definitely had enough of the Wyoming wind! 

We had another 14 miles on the highway into Rawlins. It was mostly a crosswind, and there were a lot of big trucks. Fortunately, the shoulder was wide. We crossed the Divide, and therefore, left the Great Basin. Per the usual, the guys went on ahead and were waiting for me in Rawlins. 

We went to a grocery store in Rawlins and resupplied for the next three days. Since we didn't eat in the Subway in Pinedale, we had to eat at one in Rawlins because it's the last one before we leave Wyoming. I had to check a Wyoming Subway off my list, of course!

After Subway, we rode to the KOA. Since the wind was howling, and we were tired of camping in the wind (although it does seem to die down in the evening), we opted to get a cabin. This KOA will be closing for the season on Saturday, so they've already started to shut things down (sadly, they didn't offer a discount since we can't use the Kamp Kitchen).

Tomorrow is another 50 miler. I do hope the wind isn't so bad.

Here's a final photo from the Great Basin.

Still a whole lot of nothingness.

Day 39--After 50 Miles, I've Got No More "Pedal Hard"

To clarify from yesterday, we were, apparently, not officially in the Great Basin until we crossed the Continental Divide well into today's ride. Well, it all looks the same anyway. Lots of nothingness except antelope. 

And sagebrush.

I left before the guys again today. We had a lot of miles to go. They actually took a short cut on the CDT, so they caught up to me pretty fast. The wind was really whipping. I had to take the Da Brim off my helmet because it was gagging me. It was a bummer because the one day I could have really used the shade on my face, I didn't have it. 

We stopped at Diagnus Well, 11.5 miles into the ride. Since we had no reliable info on the water situation at our destination of A & M Reservoir, we decided it would be better to have water and not need it, then to not have it, and need it. I filled all 5 of my bottles plus my two 1-liter platypus containers. Derik filled his bottles, and both his gallon dromedary bags. Connor filled his bottles, and a two liter platypus container. Needless to say, the bikes were a bit heavier!

The water pipe of flowing water. We still had to filter the water, so it took awhile.

Back to riding we had a most excellent tailwind for awhile. I was going faster than my hardest gear! It was awesome! Then, of course, the road would curve, and I'd be hit with a crosswind. The wind was non-stop the entire day.

We stopped for some lunch at a potentially inhabited ranch. Mostly it was a bunch of junk. We took shelter behind an old trailer. It did the job.

At about 50 miles in, I was pretty tired. Derik proceeds to tell me, once I caught up to them, that we now had 6 1/2 miles of headwind. He said, just put your head down and pedal hard. I told him, after 50 miles, I've got no more "pedal hard" left in my legs! Those 6 1/2 miles were pure torture! I was ready to flag down a passing pickup and ask for a ride...if only there had been one!

At the end of the torture, we still had 11 miles to go. Connor said it would be a tailwind. Well, some was, but I was so exhausted it was all I could do to just keep pedaling. With about 5 miles to go, I watched a herd of antelope running toward the road right where Derik was headed. They changed course a bit, but still crossed in front of him.

You'll have to zoom in to see them. Derik counted 16.

FINALLY, we reached the turn to the reservoir. Since we toted enough water for tomorrow, we decided not to go the mile off route to the questionable reservoir. We are just camped off the road in a flat spot. We set up the tents to block the wind for cooking, so we are pretty tight quarters tonight.

One of the hard parts for me today was riding the entire day by myself. When I mentioned that to Derik, he said him and Connor ride by themselves too. That's true, but from a mental standpoint, it's much more difficult to always be last. If they choose to ride with someone, all they have to do is slow down. I don't get that choice. I don't expect them to slow down, because they have the strength to go faster. It would just be nice to have someone to commiserate when the going is hard. But then, you say, you tour solo a lot. Again, it's different, because it's my agenda only. I can stop whenever I want. They are very good at letting me rest when I finally catch up, but I know they've already been there a long time, and I don't want to delay them more. Anyway, enough whining! Today, at 68 miles was Connor's longest mileage day ever on a bike.

Day 38--Poof, Just Like That, No More Trees!

Okay, it wasn't really that much of a "Poof". First we had to ride quite a few miles. I left about 20 minutes before the guys as we had a long day ahead of us. They caught me at 10 miles. 

We were riding toward the Continental Divide where we would cross it once, then ride along it, then cross it again, and finally cross it again at South Pass. 

Here's a pano from where we were riding along the Divide. To the right of us (this photo) the water flows to the Pacific. To the left, on the other side of the road, the water flows to the Atlantic. I wondered what would happen if you poured water right in the middle of the road??? It was a wide gravel road.

See? Wide road.

It was quite the rollercoaster, and when we "topped out" at South Pass (and CD crossing #12), it barely seemed like we had climbed a Pass at all. That's because we didn't hardly. We stayed at about 7550' most of the day. 

At South Pass, we turned onto the highway. There was a lovely rest stop where there were flush toilets and everything!

Info about the Pass at the Rest Stop.

We had just a few more miles on the highway before we turned off to head to South Pass City. It used to be a booming town, with most all of the pioneer trails passing through it. There was also a gold mine called the Carissa Mine. Now the town is run by the State Parks of Wyoming. To go into the town part, there is a fee, but that closed down Sept. 30th. We could walk around, but not go in any of the buildings.

The saloon.

The gold mine.

The climb out of South Pass City was steep. After lunch, and walking around, my legs did not enjoy that climb! 

The next stop was Atlantic City (not remotely the same as the one in New Jersey). We came down this steep hill. We stopped at the only restaurant in town and all had apple pie. 

There are actually quite a few people who live in Atlantic City. 

The climb out of AC was even worse than SPC. I thought for sure I'd have to walk, but with breaks, I managed to ride the whole thing.

Climbing through the last few trees out of Atlantic City. 

Once we were at the top, The Great Basin lay before us. Here, the water flows neither east or west, but stays in the basin. There are no trees, just sage brush and other low shrubs.

Looking back at the last of the trees we will see until Rawlins.

The Great Basin stretching out before us!

I've been looking forward to this part as I think it will give me a good idea of what the Nullabor Plain might be like in Australia. Originally, we had planned to do an extra 11.5 miles from what the book says, and get to Diagnus Well. However, there was quite a wind blowing (mostly in our favor) when we got to the book's intended overnight at Sweetwater River. There was more shelter from the wind here, so we decided to call it a day. Tomorrow will be a long one, but we are following the book. If it says we can do 69 miles, then I suppose we can. Counting tomorrow, we have 2 more days of riding in the Basin. Rawlins will look mighty good I'm sure! Oh, also, there are supposed to be wild horses and lots of antelope. I did see antelop today, but no horses. I'm hoping to get a good photo of the antelope, but they are a bit camera shy. Whenever I stop, they run away.

Day 37--A Warm Sunny Day...After Awhile

This morning didn't seem as cold as yesterday, but it probably was. It helped that there was a warm restroom and clubhouse that we could retreat to if necessary. In fact, Derik had gotten up ahead of Connor and I, made himself a cup of tea, and took it to the clubhouse where he read his new book (the clubhouse had several books for the taking).

We didn't get started until about 10:00. We only had 39 or 40 miles of which about 20 was pavement. We were winding our way toward the foothills of the Wind River Mountains. Although, it seemed pretty straight much of the time.

Not much there.

The guys were waiting for me at the end of the pavement. Derik had an apple, and was trying to give the core to a horse. The horse declined.

"It's delicious, trust me!"

We rode for awhile on the gravel before stopping for lunch. Just above Big Sandy Creek where we had lunch, there was this info board.

I don't know if you can read it, but it talks about all the people who used this route to come across the country.

Big Sandy Creek where we ate lunch.

Right after lunch, we had to climb up from the creek. I do so hate a climb right after eating! We turned at the top of the hill toward the mountains.

We gradually, and not so gradually climbed up to a saddle.

Some trees at the top (and snow too)!

The route became quite rollercoastery. I would have preferred a bigger down to the ups, but generally, no. Here was a pretty one through the aspen trees.

One of the nicer downhills.

When I caught up to the guys, Derik was doing a little yoga/stretching.

We had just about 3 1/2 more miles to get to Little Sandy Creek where we would be camping. As I came down a hill, I could see the guys in a cow pie filled meadow saying this was the spot. There was a small creek. So we set up our tents trying to avoid the cow pies.

Connor did some adjustment on his handlebars, and took his bike for a ride to test them out. He came back and said Little Sandy Creek was about 1/4 mile away. He was for packing up and moving there. Derik and I were not. Still, we walked there to filter water.

A much better creek--Little Sandy.

Filtering 6 liters at a time is a two person job--actually three, as Derik was manning the containers.

On the way there, and at the creek there were sign posts for the Oregon Trail and the California Trail.

California Trail.

We cooked our dinner and then Derik went to sit on the rock that looks like a squirrel/hamster.

I think squirrel. Derik thinks hamster. What do you think?

The sun is setting and it promises to be another cold night. Hopefully the sun will be on us soon in the morning.

Here's a parting shot for today.

Connor was trying to ride out of the shot. He failed!

Day 36--Making Progress, But Boy is it Cold in the Morning!

It sure is tough to get out of a warm sleeping bag when everything is frozen! I put my clothes in the bottom of my sleeping bag, then lay there while they warm up. On the outside of my tent it looks like it snowed, but I really think it's just frost...heavy frost.

Water bottles, and just about everything liquid was frozen. 

The park ranger (BLM) came through this morning. We knew the park was closed, but the gate wasn't closed. The ranger didn't seem to have a problem with us being there. He was putting the cable across the entrance, but we were able to get under it pretty easy.

It was sunny when we left at our usual 9:30. Instead of taking the highway all the way to Pinedale, we cut over and rejoined the route before Cora. The road was paved, but it was much quieter than the highway. Maybe just a couple miles longer. Along that road we saw these guys.

By the way, see those snowy mountains? That's where we would have come from if we'd stayed on the route.

Some kind of deer? Or antelope?

A couple of miles after Cora, we turned onto a gravel road. It was so packed that it was like pavement. When we got back to the paved road, there was a bike path that ran alongside it. The path took us all the way into Pinedale. It was nearly noon, and we were hungry. I wanted to stop at Subway, so I could check a Wyoming Subway off my list. Instead, we went to a Brewery which had better food for sure, but now I still can't check a Wyoming Subway off my list! 

We were planning to stay in Boulder because there was no more camping options for a long distance. Turns out Boulder was just 11 more miles from Pinedale. We needed to restock groceries anyway, so we did that in Pinedale before we left. The next resupply place is Rawlins, 4 long days away. This is just the second time we've had to carry this much food. 

We left Pinedale on the highway. We were headed to an RV Park called Highline. It was a mile off the route. However, as we were riding, almost to Boulder, we saw another RV park right on the route. We're just a little over a mile from Boulder. This place has showers, laundry, wifi, and a "clubhouse", all for the low low price of $10! 

Hanging out in the clubhouse. It's warm in here!

That's snow outside the cowgirl's restroom!

It did end up being sunny and relatively warm. I say "relatively", as it is Fall...I'm sure tonight will be another freezing one.

The direction we're headed tomorrow. Pretty darn flat!