6/14-It Sure Is Harder on a Loaded Bike!

Today was all Palouse to Cascades. I was on the trail shortly after 7:00. I’ve done the trail up through the tunnel and back several times on a gravel bike. This was the first time I’ve gone up to the tunnel on a loaded bike (I’ve come down…very different). It was fine…at first. I stopped to take all the obligatory photos. 

The beginning

Nice little waterfall. 

About 4 1/2 miles in I came to the bypass trail. 

I actually did walk my bike!

The often photographed washout

The lovely bypass trail

One of the bigger trestles

Another one

I-90 way down there

I finally got to Alice Creek. Turns out it was 10 miles from the start, not 6. I’m so glad I didn’t go there last night!

I was really starting to slow down. I was stopping for a butt break every mile. It was so much slower on a loaded bike! I always used to say that I didn’t really notice the climbing, until we would be coming back down. Oh, I noticed the climbing today!!!

After what seemed like an eternity, the tunnel finally came in to view. There were quite a few people there. I sat with a young couple who were riding to Walla Walla and had a snack. 

After taking a photo of Wanda (her first time through the tunnel), I turned on my headlight, and headed in. 

I hadn’t put my jacket on. Kind of regretted that, but just told myself to embrace the cold because it was going to be hot on the other side. There were numerous people in the tunnel. Not too many bikes though. Mostly walkers and runners. 

I saw the young couple again at the restroom in Hyak. They were going all the way to Ellensburg today. From Hyak to Lake Easton was 18 miles further. I got back on the trail. Even though I was now going a few miles and hour faster, I was still stopping a lot. I did let some air out of my tires, and I think that helped. 

Lake Kacheelus (which we now know goes to Yakima, not Seattle)

Today’s deer sighting 

A bit after the lake, the trail surface became heavy gravel. It looks like they had recently regraveled it. It was not fun. 

This isn’t even the worst!

The gravel was really thick in this tunnel!

I saw a guy pull over to a picnic table a ways later. Needing a butt break myself, I stopped to remark about how horrible the gravel was. His name was Tom, and we sat and talked for about an hour! It was great! Little did he know, he saved my day. I really needed the break, and it was wonderful talking with him. We both agreed we could have talked all day. Another bikepacker rolled up. I asked where he was going. Turns out, he was at the start yesterday, but I never talked to him. His name is Dan, and he did it two years ago too. He’s hoteling this time, and not exactly following the route, but perhaps I’ll see him again. 

Tom!

Dan is filming his trip, and putting it on YouTube. 

I felt much better after the break with Tom. Now I just had about 8 miles to go. The thick gravel persisted for another mile or so, then it was back to normal, and I could pick up the speed. 

Yakima River 

Funky bridge over an arm of Lake Easton

One final tunnel for today.

I exited the trail at Easton. I could have taken a trail into the park directly, but I wanted to get a bit of resupply in Easton. There was a small grocery, and I got some snack stuff. Across the street was a burger food truck. The woman in the store said it was good. By now, I was starving. I went there next. 

I pretty much inhaled a “Mama burger” and a Sprite. Best burger ever!!!

The state park wasn’t too far. There was one of two H/B sites available. I’ve actually stayed on this site before. Best part was the hot shower!!! Now I can just relax. Don’t need to cook dinner as I’m still full from the burger (maybe a snack later).

Even though I was tired today, I know it will get better. I’ve done 100 miles in two days. That’s more than I usually do. 

8/29-Heading Home

Goodbye DC!

And my friend, the Washington Monument!

I’m writing this on the plane, doing in about 5 hours what took me 75 days. As my son said, the magic of air travel. 

When I was getting ready to do the Great American Wheel Route, nearly everyone asked me how long I thought it would take. My answer was based on how long it took my friend and I to do the Trans Am. That was about 4500 miles, and we did it in exactly 3 months (and a half a day). So, I figured I could do 3700 miles in 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 months. I was pretty spot on at 2 1/2 months! Did I think I would do the whole route with just 3 days off? And did I think those 3 days would all be because of weather? No, and no. At 64 years old, I kind of surprised myself that I still had the endurance to ride day after day. I guess I’m still not a fan of taking a whole day off if there’s nothing to do (and on those 3 days off due to weather…yes, I was bored). 

I mostly enjoyed the whole route (well, not that Wyoming part so much). My favorite rail trail was the Mickelson Trail in South Dakota. I would recommend that trail to anyone. I think my least favorite trail was the Cowboy Trail in Nebraska. Sure, it was better than the highway, but the surface wasn’t the best, and not a lot of variety of scenery. I think my favorite state was, believe it or not, Iowa! Sure, the western part with the never ending up and down gravel farm roads kicked my butt, but the back-to-back rail trails in the mid and eastern part were awesome! Of course, Illinois and Indiana had great trails too, so did Ohio. The Indiana and Ohio trails were just so affected by the terrible weather. The GAP and C&O were also great, but I don’t think I would need to do them again. 

Speaking of the weather, from snow in Montana to extreme heat in Nebraska, and the dreadful thunderstorms and flooding from Indiana until nearly the end, I really experienced it all! The snow was uncomfortable and the heat was…hot, but what was, by far, the worst, and the most dangerous, was the flooding! I would be happy if I never have to experience that again!

I always say, a bike trip is really about the people. There were some extra special people on this trip. In the West, I have to thank Judy and Jerry for letting me stay at their house, even though they were in the midst of renovating it. Crowell for his routing through Montana, and being available for questions. Brooke for giving me a ride into Phillipsburg on that freezing cold day. My “daughter”, Makaela, for sending me my Brooks saddle (without which I don’t think my butt would have survived). Bernie for letting me camp in her pasture on the reservation in Montana.Young  Curtis, who saved me on that dreadfully long day in Wyoming by giving me a ride to the New Haven B&B. Kim, who came to ride the last bit of the Cowboy Trail, and also brought me a new rear tire (without which, I’m not sure what I would have done). Nile, in Iowa, who decided I could use a Casey’s gift card (and I did!). Richard, who gave me a short ride to the T-Bone Trail in the 98 degree heat (mostly, I enjoyed the conversation). Kelli in Moline for letting many of us GAWR riders stay with her. My dearest friend, Bethany, who met me in Frankfort, IL so we could spend some time together, and ride through the south Chicago suburbs (and, if not for her, I would have had no idea when I crossed into Indiana). The four guys who bought me lunch in Morgantown. I really enjoyed riding with them. I also want to thank Tommie who made my last night on the C&O so much fun. 

I rode the majority of the route solo, but I did get to enjoy two separate days with Sarah, who left Seattle a week after me, but caught up in West Virginia. That was very fun!

A special thanks go to Vivian and Ken who, even though we never really rode together, we were in each other’s orbit from really, South Dakota onwards. We enjoyed several dinners together, and stayed in a few hotels together, but most of all, kept tabs on each other during the terrible weather days. We are friends for life now!

I got really lucky when I managed to be in Parkersburg the same time as Dana McKnight, the guy who put the route together for submission to Bikepacking.com. We spent a great evening debriefing about the route (there will be more to come I’m sure). Then he even met up with Sarah and I again. 

Finally, I’d like to thank Curtis Sutherland for the moral support, and commenting on every single blog post!

And final finally, a special thank you to my son, Nolan. I’m so glad he was able to come to DC and meet me at the finish. It truly made for the best finish ever of a long bike trip! I thoroughly enjoyed our few days in DC!

I’ll finish this post with a word about the most awesome bike on the planet. I bought Wanda, my Salsa Cutthroat, with this route in mind. She truly was the perfect bike for the GAWR. I wouldn’t have changed a thing about her setup. I had zero issues, even with all the water she had to endure! She is most deserving of a thorough cleaning (as soon as I get her back home…not sure when that will be).

Thanks to all of you who read my blog posts (and gave encouraging comments).

8/26-There Ya Go, I Did It!

The final day finally arrived. I didn’t really sleep that great because the 6 or so mosquitoes that were partying in my tent kept me awake. Finally, I had to shut it down and go on a murder spree.

For this final day, I got up at 6:30. My plan was to be on the trail by 8:00. Even chatting with Tommie (who, by the way, gave me breakfast too this morning), we were both packed up and ready to go right at 8:00. 

Wow, an actual canal boat on the canal!

Even though you might think I would just want to bomb my way to the end, I took time to go out to the Great Falls of the Potomac Overlook. While it’s no Niagara, it was pretty awesome. 

On the way out to the overlook

The Great Falls themselves

See the kayaker (red kayak)?he’s at the top.

Just shot out from that other channel

In the foam!

Getting out to do it again!

The trail surface was a bit more rocky for awhile. Wanda had no problems, but I could see where skinnier tires might not be so fun.

Cool covered bridge

Boardwalk

Fairly quieth

10 miles of the C&O to go!

Bit by bit I came closer to the end of the C&O in Georgetown. I started seeing the tops of buildings.I came to where I had to cross over the canal. Over the bridge, there were stairs. But, then I realized I didn’t go up the stairs, I came down around and under the bridge to continue on the other side of the canal. 

A little bit of singletrack to end the canal. 

I popped out in Georgetown. Did some more sly dog riding, then had to detour. I asked a guy how to get to the Washington Monument. He directed me to the Rock Creek Trail. I told him that was where I was supposed to go!

Rock Creek Trail along the river

Kennedy Center

My first view of my friend, the Washington Monument!

Nolan texted that he was at the monument. So was Paul. I kept making my way there following the route.

Getting really close now!!!

At last I could see Nolan doing a video of me! I waved and had an ear to ear grin on my face the whole way in!

There ya go! I made it!

Me and Paul

So happy my son could meet me!

Hugging my friend, the Washington Monument!

Not just a wall in the background

Making our way to our B&B

We are staying at a very nice Air B&B compliments of my son, Nolan. I showered , put laundry in, then we went to Eastern Market for lunch before taking the Metro back to the WA monument to meet Vivian and Ken finishing.

Yay Vivian and Ken!!!

Me, Paul, Vivian, and Ken!

Nolan found a place for dinner that was centrally located for all of us (well, to the bike shop for me). I rode stripped down Wanda to Silver Cycles. Nolan took the Metro, and met me there. I dropped off Wanda. They will box her up, then send me the dimensions and weight, which I will then send to Bike Flights. Bike flights will send me a pdf for the shipping label, then Wanda will be picked up and be on her way home. I have no idea what the timeline is for this process. It’s good I have other bikes.

After dropping off Wanda, Nolan and I walked to the restaurant. Vivian and Ken were already there. Paul showed up, and we had a wonderful celebratory dinner!

paul leaves tomorrow. Vivian and Ken on the 29th, same as me and Nolan. We may see Vivian and Ken again. Tomorrow, Nolan and I will get a duffle bag for my stuff, and then we are going to go to the zoo to see the pandas, and the baby elephant.

Today was a great day to finish a cross country ride! I’ll probably do some stats and reflections in another post.