7/1-Well…I Was Warned!

Since breakfast wasn’t ready until 8:00, I didn’t need to get up at the butt-crack of dawn. I wasn’t going to miss one of Scott’s muffins. Today was blueberry…delicious! 

It was still kind of chilly so I wore my leg warmers, and my arm warmers over my hoody, but I didn’t wear my puffy jacket. 

The majority of the route to Drummond was downhill on the highway. 

It is July 1st afterall

Highway miles

Welcome back shadow!

I finally stopped at this historical marker to take off the leg warmers and arm warmers. 

As I continued on the hwy, I saw this funny sign. I think it was for the museum. 

The museum, and yes, it was open

Lots of metal animals

I wasn’t too far out of Drummond by now. I rode in on a back road. It went right by the Drummond City Park that allows camping. 

This is where I would have stayed if I’d been able to make it. 

In Drummond, I stopped at the convenience store for some chocolate milk and a snack. I was 27 miles in and it was about 10:00. Not bad. 

From Drummond I was ever so gradually climbing on a frontage road along I-90. I stopped to take my yellow shirt off as it was getting warmer. I looked back, and saw a cyclist approaching. I knew immediately that it was Dan. I’d wondered if he would catch me today. We chatted for a moment. He was also heading to Deer Lodge, but staying in a hotel. I also suspected, but didn’t think to ask, that he was doing a different route into Deer Lodge. With what came next, I’m absolutely certain he did. 

Bye Dan!

The frontage road had those annoying cracks every few feet. I found if I rode smack dab in the middle of the road, they weren’t so bad. 

I turned off the frontage road at Gold Creek. There was one of those “Make-a-wish” camps. Only they called it “Make -a-Dream”. 

Just a handful of miles later, I turned onto Old Stage Road. At first it was paved, but then it turned to gravel. But, it was good gravel. 

Short break for a snack. 

Interesting little shack

Awesome gravel!

I had started a 4.3 mile climb. Things were going great. Then the route continued onto a much less great road. 

Less gravel, more dirt. 

Uh oh, this must be the part the guy who commented on my blog post said might be mud…but just for a mile or two. Let’s just say, I was warned! It was indeed muddy, and for way more than a mile or two. In fact, more like about 8 of the 10 miles of “gravel”. 

Twice I had to scrape the mud off the tires and the chain stays. Fortunately, the drivetrain stayed pretty clean.

Sometimes, there was a side route

The scenery was pretty good though. 

There were 3 more climbs after the 4.3 mile climb. Two were 1/2 mile long climbs, and one was 1 1/2 miles.

One of so many lake puddles to negotiate. For this one, I climbed up on the grass on the left.

I saw only one side by side the entire mud section, and it was just before the last climb. I told them it was pretty muddy that direction. They were surprised I had come that way.

More views

The cows were curious as to why I would choose to do this. I was too.

You can see the last climb in the distance. 

From the top of the last climb, it was mostly downhill all the way to Deer Lodge, but there were still muddy bits and puddles to weave through. Finally, I could see the town. 

Down down down

Finally on pavement into town.

I stopped at a burger place that said it was and A&W, but it wasn’t. They did have A&W root beer! As usual, since the chocolate milk and snack in Drummond, I had eaten very little. I was suddenly quite hungry. 

Refueled, I headed for Indian Creek RV and Campground. Of course, it is next to I-90, but I don’t care. For the first time on this trip, I’m camped on grass. Should be comfy. Penny, in the office, said Welsh Chris was here a week ago. He is riding a lot of I-90.

My new friend. She’s a tripod (3 legs).

Tomorrow I should make it to Butte. So looking forward to getting my Brooks saddle. Although, my butt wasn’t too bad today, even though I did 61 miles. Of course, that’s because I had so much hike-a-bike through the mud. 

6/29-A Mighty Good Decision

As predicted, it has rained the entire day here in Phillipsburg, MT. I’m so glad I wasn’t riding all day in the rain, then setting up my tent. 

I didn’t do a whole lot today. Everything is dried (except my shoes are still a little damp), and packed away. 

Heres a few photos, some from yesterday, of the charming town of Phillipsburg. 

Doe’s, where I ate lunch yesterday. 

You know I would not pass this up!

Almost overwhelming! I stocked up on gummi candy. 

The town seems to be mostly closed on Mondays. My food choices were limited. For lunch I decided on ice cream! Had a great chat with the woman working in the shop. For dinner, I went to the Mexican restaurant, Kiko’s. 

The only open restaurant 

But it was tasty. 

Everything is fully charged, and ready to go tomorrow. The forecast is still looking pretty good. I’ll have about a 10 mile section of gravel. Hopefully, it won’t be a mess from all the rain. 

Wanda nearly ready. 

It was a great decision to stay here today, but tomorrow I push on!

6/28-The Popsicle Ride and Amazing Kindness

I apologize upfront for the lack of many photos today. But, before I get into today, I have to tell you about the weirdness of last night. 

At about 10:45, a vehicle pulled in to the campground. It seemed to drive around for some time (mind you, this is not a big campground…more like a micro campground). I know this because the headlights kept repeatedly panning over my tent. Finally they stopped the engine. I could see flashlights shining. There was a lot of noise of dumping something on the ground. Of course, by now I had to pee. It sounded like they were at the other campsite. It was also raining. I got out of my tent, peed fast, and dove back in. Before I got back in, I noticed they had a big fire going. I went back to sleep. Just before 2:00, I heard the vehicle start up, and they left. It was still raining. 

I woke up at 6:00. It seemed like it wasn’t raining as hard. I even thought, maybe it was just dripping from the trees. It was pretty cold though. I got out to pee again. It wasn’t raining…it was snowing! Wanda had a good dusting of wet snow covering her. 

Okay! Time to make a plan to get lower as fast as possible. I had brought my rain gear in under the vestibule so it was dry. I got dressed, put my rain shorts on, and put my rain jacket on over my puffy jacket (thankfully it fits). I even put my helmet on. Then I set about packing everything up. No breakfast for me until I was lower down. It was about 7:20 when I headed downhill. 

At first, it was fine. I was warm in my puffy jacket. I had also put my arm warmers on over my hoody. Basically, I had four layers on top. On the bottom I had my wool leg warmers and my rain shorts. I had my Showers Pass waterproof gloves.  

I was soon out of the snow, but it was still raining, and 37 degrees. I had a long gravel/dirt downhill. Along the way I saw some elk and a deer. There was a section of pavement, but then it went back to gravel. 

By now, I was not so toasty warm. My hands and feet were frozen. My legs were really starting to feel the cold. Even with the four layers on top, the cold was seeping in. 

The road flattened out, so at least I was pedaling instead of coasting. But, I was not getting any warmer. I saw a sign for Rock Creek Ranch. Turns out the route went right by it. I came to it, and could see a woman up the driveway. I rode up and asked her if there was an office someplace. She was a guest, but told me “across the street and left”. I headed over. When I went inside, a young g woman named Emma was at the front desk. I told her I was riding my bike from up near Skalkaho Pass, and I was frozen. I asked if there was a place to stay. She said it is a guest ranch, and is very expensive. She said there were hotels in Phillipsburg. But, I was welcome to warm up as long as I needed. She brought me a big cozy coat, a towel, a blanket, and some handwarmers. Another guy said the kettle was hot and I could help myself. I had to have Emma unbuckle my helmet. Emma said it was 20 miles to Phillipsburg. I confirmed that on my route. 

Wet, cold, but slowly warming up in the nice big coat!

I had some hot cider, and told Emma I was just going to get some food off my bike since I hadn’t had anything to eat. She offered whatever snacks I wanted, but then she said, “We have some extra vehicles today because of cancellations. I could get someone to drive you to town.” I most immediately said, “Yes please!”

Brooke came in, and a vehicle was decided upon. I met her outside, and we loaded a very dirty Wanda in the back of the Suburban. 

There was dirt in places Wanda has never had dirt!

We had a nice drive to Phillipsburg. When we got there, we first went to the Inn at Phillipsburg Motel and RV Park. Brooke said she wanted to make sure I could stay there before she left me. Thank goodness, because there was no vacancy. It was kinda interesting as there were no cars except one in the parking lot. Brooke called The Broadway Hotel next. Yes! They had a room! We drove over there. Again, Brooke came in to make sure they did have something for me. Scott, the owner, recognized Brooke as one of the “Ranchies”, the collective name for the young people who work at Rock Creek. 

Scott booked me in to the Granite room, but as it was early, the room wasn’t clean yet. Brooke and I unloaded Wanda. I said a million thanks to Brooke, gave her a hug, and took a selfie.

My hero!!!

Scott heated me up one of his homemade muffins, and gave me a glass of milk. He said his wife is a world class paddle board racer, and he specializes in homemade muffins! It was delicious!

Scott had them clean the Granite room pronto. I asked if there was a hose I could use to get the dirt off Wanda before bringing going her into the room. He found a watering can, and showed me where the hose bib was. I got her all rinsed off. 

The room was ready. I’ve cleaned everything, and set up things to dry. I still have to wash the mud ball that is my tent, and the rainfly. 

I’m here for two nights because this “winter storm warning” continues through tomorrow. Up at the ski hill near town, they got 6” of snow!!! It’s Juneuary for sure!

6/27-The Slow Slog Up Skalkaho Pass

It’s 4:45 and I’m sitting in my tent at 7000 feet. It’s raining. I’m joined by a mosquito, but that won’t be for long (no insects, especially mosquitoes are allowed to live in my tent).

The weather forecast is not great for this weekend. Pretty much rain through Monday. Others may have stayed put, but I couldn’t afford more nights in the Quality Inn. Besides, I always say, sweet as I am, I don’t melt in the rain. Now, would it be better to not be climbing a 7400 foot pass? Maybe, but obviously I survived it. 

I left the hotel in the rain at about 7:00. I got back on the Bitterroot Trail for a short bit, before heading out of town. 

Yep, raining. 

But, still a deer sighting!

It was about 30 miles to the top of Skalkaho Pass. It was gradual to start with, then Garmin let me know I was now going to climb in earnest for the next 17 miles. 

Funny sign…I suppose I would make it weird. 

Skalkaho Creek

I was still climbing on pavement when I came to this sign. 

I thought that meant the road was turning to gravel now. Nope! I rode probably another few miles. 

Still pavement

Now gravel…well kinda sandy mud

There was actually a fair number of vehicles. Skalkaho Falls is a destination. The rain quit for awhile, then started up again, then quit again, then started again…basically off and on the whole day. Even in my tent right now, it’s not raining anymore. 

After about 20 miles of riding, my butt was starting to protest. I was stopping more and more frequently. Finally, I did what I had done days ago. I got off and walked for awhile. It’s a bummer, because I didn’t feel like the climbing was all that hard. At most it was 6%, but usually it was 4-5%. Totally rideable if my butt wasn’t yelling at me! 

With about 5 miles of the climb to go, I came to Skalkaho Falls. It’s 150 foot high waterfall right next to the road. 

Notice I’m wearing my hi-vis vest. Thought it was a good idea considering the weather.

I was counting down the miles left as I alternated riding and walking. Of all the vehicles that passed me, only one guy stopped to ask me if I was okay. I told him I was fine, my butt just needed to be off the saddle for a bit. 

As I continued to climb, I could see snow up in the higher elevations. 

Not going that high!

Finally, I made it to the Pass. Disappointed that there was no Pass sign, just the sign saying Hamilton 29 and Phillipsburg 25. 

The campground I’m staying at (Crystal Creek) is only a mile down from the Pass. I would have liked to go lower, but there are no other campgrounds, and there’s no camping in Phillipsburg (plus, 25 miles away). It’s a very small campground, kinda just two sites (well, two picnic tables). There’s a pit toilet, and I might put my food bags in there for the night. Too bad there’s no bear locker. 

I think it’s going to be chilly tonight. This will be the first night I will zip up the foot box of my quilt. 

It has stopped raining, so I’ll shall exit my tent and finish my nightly chores.