We had about 10 miles to San Jose de Comondo. We got there just after 9:00. There was a massive descent into the village--another oasis in the desert. The town was very clean, and very quiet. We needed water, and some snacks. At the Plaza Publico, a guy was watering the plants. We asked where we could get agua purificada. He showed us the hose, then proceeded to drink out of it. Okay, good enough for us (we hope)! We filled our dromedary bags about half full. We had another 30 miles to San Javier, so we figured that was good enough. We asked where the tienda was. He told us, and we rode there. The door was locked, even though it was supposed to be open. Then the owner came around the corner, and unlocked the door. Woo Hoo, open for business! We got some snacks and a couple of Cokes. Brent drank his there. I put mine in one of my feed bags because I'd had a chocolate milk.
We next went to the Mission. All these old missions are pretty cool. We took photos, then went on our way. Remember how I said there was a massive descent down to the town? Well, there was an equally massive climb back out of the town! We walked most of it. I rode probably the second half. Just like that, we were back in the desert.
We rode along going ever up, it seemed. At the top of the next descent, we could look across the valley we were going down into, and see the way we would be going out. OH MY GOD! It was not going to be fun! Down we went, and almost immediately, started the climb back up. It was pretty loose rock, and then lots of big rocks poking out. We walked. After the first switchback, when the road surface smoothed out a bit, I got back on. I was able to ride almost to the next switchback. The third section was beastly, and I had to walk the whole thing. Brent just walked the entire climb, but he can walk faster than I can. At the final switchback, I stopped to take some photos before heading up the last bit. There was one lone flower coming out of the ground. I took a picture. I continued walking up the final section to where Brent was waiting. We decided to go on and find some shade to eat some lunch. I had already polished off my Coke, so it was water with lunch (pb&j on a tortilla).
The climbing continued until, once again, we were at the top of a big descent. From the top it looked like we would not be climbing out on the other side like we had been doing. The descent was pretty steep, and there were two times I walked short sections as I could see the potential for my imminent demise (i.e. My life started flashing before my eyes).
Sure enough, we did not have to climb like we'd been doing. There were still a couple more walking bits, but not as bad as before (well there was one that wasn't pleasant). I was counting down the miles to San Javier. It was supposed to be about a 40 mile day. We finally came out to a paved road that lead into San Javier. We rolled into town at about 4:00 after 42 miles. First order of business was to find some hot food. We saw a woman sitting at what looked like a restaurant. We asked if she had comida, she said si, so we parked our bikes and sat down at the table. When she told us what she had, I didn't really understand, but I said si. I asked for soda, but she didn't have any. Instead she brought me what may have been like a sweet berry tea. I didn't care, I was thirsty. When she brought the food, it was rice (I understood that part) and quesadillas (I also understood that part). Then she brought out a sopa. Ah...soup. It appeared to have some fatty pork pieces with veggies and beans. Actually, it was pretty good. After we were done eating, she brought out a spoon of guava jam, and a tub of it. I ate the spoonful, and found it to be delicious. It was 70 pesos for the tub. It was rather heavy, but Brent and I split it (I mixed mine in with my peanut butter, and some in with my pineapple jam).
We went to the tienda to get water. There were only two small bottles. I bought them as Brent thought he had enough. There is also a mission here. Again, it was very cool. We looked around and took photos.
Next we needed to find a place to sleep. We had seen a sign for a hostel, but it didn't seem to be open. I saw a guy, and asked him about the hostel. From what we could figure out, the woman who runs the hostel was in Loreto. There was another place that had a sign for cabanas. That person was also in Loreto, but was coming back in an hour. We thought we would wait, but the guy went and talked to someone, then we followed him to an empty house with two double beds. It was 300 pesos, and there is a good flushing toilet. No hot water in the shower, but no worries. We don't need no stinkin' shower!!! (Yes we do, but I'm not taking a cold shower).
Tomorrow, I really hope we don't have so much walking. We really want to make it to the next place, and that is 56 miles away. At least we'll have about 10 miles of pavement...we think.