Good morning from Grand Portage.
Yes, we were up before the dawn. Lani woke me from a deep sleep at 5:10. We quickly packed up our gear along with our soaking wet tents (still no rain, just dew), and headed, in the dark, to the ferry dock. It turned out to be 2.6 miles from our campsite. We arrived at 6:20. We were the first ones there.
When the skipper (Ben) fired up the engines (warm them up?), I went over to ask how much needed to come off our bikes. He said probably just on one side, to be able to lash the bikes to the railing…up top on the back of the boat. I said, “Oh, the bikes have to be lifted up there? Then all the bags need to come off.” I asked if we would have help. Ben said he could “lend a hand”. Okay, this might be tricky.
More people arrived (all backpackers), and Bob (the first mate) had them start bringing over their packs. We then handed up our bags. Then it was time for the bikes. Ben was up top, and Bob was on the dock. Ben told Lani she had to help Bob with the bike, but then Bob picked it up and said it wasn’t heavy! He handed it to Ben. Next came Billy. Bob just picked up Billy, no problem!
Billy and Bumblebee secured!
This boat is about twice the size of the boat I took across Lago O’Higgins. On that boat, there were 11 bikes, and 3 hikers. On this boat, we were the only 2 bikes, and the rest (maybe about 20-25) were hikers. That makes sense, considering there is no biking in Isle Royale National Park.
We were underway at 7:33.
Inside the boat. Little did we know the seats we chose would be right on top of the engines. It was very loud.
Lani looking out the window.
The bikes have the best view!
Skipper Ben
The sun coming up over Lake Superior
Calm water!
Our first port o’ call was Windigo. Several people were getting off to start their hike there, but everyone had to get off the boat to have the Isle Royale orientation.
Seaplanes…another way to get to the island.
Windigo
Ranger Andrew gave the orientation talk. Every time he said, “Isle Royale is so wild.” We had to say…you guessed it…”How wild is it?” It’s so wild that it is the least visited National Park in the lower 48. It is so wild, it is the most revisited National Park in the lower 48.
After the orientation, those of us continuing on to McCargoe Cove and Rock Harbor reboarded the boat. We made our way along the shoreline to the next stop.
Lani and I got seats outside. It was much quieter. In this photo we don’t have our jackets on. Once we were out of Windigo Bay, it was a little more chilly.
Isle Royale shoreline
We pulled into Mac-something, and let off 7 more people. We added 3 (even though Bob said we weren’t picking anyone up there). Interestingly, there was a Park Ranger Police boat, and three rangers there. So, don’t know what the deal was with these three hikers…
McCargoe Cove
It was another hour plus to Rock Harbor. Lani took a nap.
First mate, Bob preparing for our arrival in Rock Harbor.
Ahoy Rock Harbor!
The process for disembarking and unloading the boat was interesting. Since the dock was kind of skinny (considering the number of people, including those two weirdos on the bikes…who brings a bike to an island where it can’t be ridden??? Oh, wait…that’s us), we all lined up, and did a “bucket brigade” with the packs to the shore. I couldn’t believe how heavy some of those packs were! Lani was smart. She was at the far end of the line so most people were just grabbing their packs before they got to her. Some of the guys did come and grab their packs before they had to go through the line, saying they were heavy. Our bags came off last. Then the bikes. We wheeled our bikes to the bike rack, then went to the Ranger Station to get our permit. I got to use my America the Beautiful pass for the first time! Free entry to National Parks!
Rock Harbor Campground has a one night stay maximum (until Sept 17th). When I got up to the ranger, and said we had to stay 2 nights, she asked if we were planning to move to another campsite for the second night (nearest next campsite is 3 miles away, and we can’t take the bikes). I said we had no way to carry all our gear that far. She then said, “You knew there was a one-night limit, and you didn’t bring the means to carry your gear?” I told her we didn’t have space to carry backpacks. Then she says she will have to get the Law Enforcement Ranger to come give us a special dispensation to stay two nights. In no time, Officer Seth was there. When I told him we had to stay two nights because there is no boat on Sunday to Copper Harbor, he said, “Absolutely no problem! You can stay two nights.” He filled out and signed our permit, and even helped carry my bags to the campsite! Officer Seth was very nice! As we were walking to the campsite, I looked ahead and saw a most beautiful fox. Seth said her name is Charlotte, and she is a bit of a pest. He let me take a photo (but it wasn’t very good) before he “hazed” her to run away. She mostly sauntered.
We got to the campsite, and Seth headed back. Who should come up the trail to the water spigot near our campsite?
Isn’t she beautiful? Just look at that tail!
We piled all our stuff on the picnic table.
We set up our soaking wet tents. I threw all my stuff into the tent, put my food bags into the repurposed wolf crates (Isle Royale’s version of a bear box), and went back to Billy to retrieve the stuff out of my frame bag. We locked the bikes to the flimsy bike rack, and came back to the campsite.
No bikes here!
So…wolf crates…there are 27 wolves on Isle Royale. A success story, as they transported something like 10 when the wolf population got down to two. However, with that success, comes a price. Wolves have been getting into hiker’s stuff. Poor food storage, not keeping a clean camp, etc. they have places the crates in the campsites where the wolves have been a problem, and have been hazing them to deter them from coming around humans. Mostly, it’s nothing different from good bear practices. Except, due to also the fox population, you don’t leave anything (even shoes) outside your tent. I’m grateful for my 2 person tent. Plenty of room.
Now, we sort of have three days off the bike. Yes, we had to ride 2.6 miles this morning, and we’ll have to ride to the campground in Copper Harbor on Monday, but that’s nothing.
Stay tuned for more adventures on Isle Royale (and it’s pronounced “Royal”…even though it should be Roy-al).
Oh, and one more thing…apparently we are in Michigan now (and the eastern time zone)!
1 comment:
That fox!
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