Wednesday, January 17, 2024

1/17-Staying on an Estancia, and So Much More!

We did 107kms with an average speed of 25kms/hour! We had a tailwind until about the last 20 or so. 

We got our earliest start this morning, just before 8:30. We continued on Ruta 40 until La Esperanza at 68 kilometers in. Only took a couple of photos because there wasn’t much to see. 

Riding across the pampas. There’s not much to stop the wind. 

Long stretches of straight road. 

I lead until La Esperanza. We stopped at the Confitería y Hotel Esperanza. It’s kind of like a truck stop. Lots of tour buses pull in. 

We spent awhile there drinking and eating. We would have had lunch there, but it was just 11:00. 

Refueled, we got back on the road with Markus in the lead. We had 39 kilometers to go to get to an estancia that we hoped we could stay at. The wind became a crosswind, and we went back to our echelon formation. For awhile, I was with Matias and Camilla. Then I was with Alex and Markus. It was slower going, but we made steady progress, and covered the kilometers. 

We reached the turn for the estancia. There was  a gate that we could open. And there was a sign that said Estancia El Milagro was 1km away. We rode down the gravel road, fingers crossed we would be able to stay. If not, we would have to ride another 24 kilometers to the next possible campsite. We pulled up, and Markus and Matias spoke with the rancher. They said it was no problemo, and showed us el baño, and where we could set up our tents, protected from the wind. 

Our three tents. 

This building appears to be a workshop. 

El Milagro is a very large estancia. The family, Carlos, Paula, Milagro, and Mateo, run the estancia for the Patron. 



Making himself comfortable. 

Paula asked us if we ate pollo. Of course! Carlos and Paula made dinner and asked us to join them. 

Carlos, master chef. 



Pollo and veggies…yum!

While the dinner was cooking, Milagro brought me a 2 month old chicken to hold. I told it it was safe. I wasn’t going to put it in the pot! Then they showed me some 2 day old chickitos. 

Mama and her chickitos tucked under. 
Then they took me to the hen house, and gave me a big chicken to hold! Mateo asked if I wanted to see the horses. So we went to the corral. First Mateo showed his skills as a gaucho. 

Mateo loves the gaucho life. 




Then him and Milagro decided I should get on the horse! 

Fortunately, Paula was there to give me a boost! Also, Berkies and down pants aren’t the best horseback riding clothes. 


Mateo took me into the tack room, and showed me the saddles and other equipment. He would góceme the name in Spanish, and I would tell him in English. 

Dinner was ready, so we headed to the house. The pollinas veggies were delicious, and we also had homemade pan. It was so much fun getting to know this family. I only wish I spoke better Spanish. 

Mateo, me, Milagro, Markus, Alex, Carlos, Paula, Carmilla (yes, it’s Carmilla, not Camilla), and Matias. 

After dinner, I lowered the saddle on Billy and let Mateo and Milagro ride “my horse”. 

Mateo is 12. 

Milagro is 18, and is in her first year of university, studying mining. 

This was a fantastic day. I’m so glad we were able to stay here, and enjoy a tiny bit of the gaucho family life. 










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