Super Biker Woman's Bike Touring: (Backup) Part 4 of the Nullarbor: May 29-31

May 29: Finishing the Long Straight

Last night a truckie came in and parked not far from where my tent was set up. No problem, except he left a motor running the entire night. I’m not sure if it was related to what he was carrying or what, but it was sure noisy. I finally put my ear plugs in. He left early.

It was really cold this morning. There was even frost on my panniers and there was fog. A short bit after I was on the road, the temp on my bike computer said it was 5.6 Celsius. I changed the set up on my rear rack so that the taillight would show up better. I think I’ll leave it that way.

I got a later start, mainly because I only had to go 50kms to Balladonia. I was also talking to Brett as he came over as I was packing up. I didn’t get a chance to ask the other couple their names.

The wind was, indeed, less. I was able to roll along at a much better speed. At 13kms, I came to the end of the Long Straight. I took some photos. The rest of the kilometers were more up and down. I’m getting closer to the Frasier Range. I expect more hills tomorrow.

I arrived at Balladonia at 11:00. This is an expensive place. Camping is $30! At least the showers are free. Oh, and it was nice to have a shower after two nights without. If it wasn’t for the want of a shower, I might have gone further.

This is the last roadhouse of the Nullarbor. It is famous for having a chunk of Skylab that landed not far from here. It’s in their little museum.

I was putting my stuff in my tent when Linda, one of the Jehovah’s Witness women that I met at Madura Pass, came over to say hi. We chatted for quite awhile at my picnic table. I accidentally opened the door for a religious conversation when I said hallelujah about something. Actually, she was quite nice, and we talked about lots of things. I have no problem with people who have their faith, as long as they don’t try to push it onto me. And, she didn’t. She actually told me how they became JW (neither her or her husband were originally). It was an interesting story. Anyway, I passed the afternoon with her, and it was good.

In the roadhouse, I inquired about the wind forecast for tomorrow. It seems like it will be similar to today (it’s also supposed to be cold again). That means I can, hopefully, make it to Fraser Range Station. There is some conflicting info on exactly how far it is (my map says 93kms, Google says 85kms). Either way, I want to get there as I’ve heard good things about it, and there is a caravan park there. Just in case, I will take enough water to last me two days. There is no tap water for drinking here, so I will have to buy a few liters.

I ate dinner with Helena and Ross in the roadhouse. It was a great evening!

May 30: A Fairly Extraordinary Day

It was 93kms of rolling hills today that started out at -1 Celcius, and got up to 28. I was so cold this morning while I was riding, that I was taking turns putting one hand in my jacket pocket to warm it up (and that’s with my long finger wool gloves).

About 20kms in, I met, for the first time on the Nullarbor, another woman cycling. Janice was with her husband Martin, and they are from Birmingham, England. Janice gave me a hug. It was so exciting to see another woman! They had also met Dorothy and Bev! They will possibly be doing Tassie, and Dorothy (of course) invited them to stay with her and Greg. As we were chatting, Ross and Helena went by and wished me safe travels.

I continued on, up and down the hills. Martin had said Nelson Rocks was worth a look, so when I got to the turn, I went the 1km out to the rocks. It was a pretty good view. It would have been a great place to camp.

A couple more kilometers later I saw another cyclist coming toward me. It was a guy named Glen from Darwin. Honestly, he was a bit of an odd duck. He was going to do a loop around the country (or a “lap” as he called it). About the time I was looking for a way to shove off, a couple in a caravan pulled up and asked if we needed anything...water...a Coke? Well, I wasn’t going to turn down a Coke! Glen, on the other hand, took off. Tom and Gail gave me not one, but two Cokes! Gail offered me food too, but I was okay for food. We chatted for a bit, then they took off. I think they are from Albany.

I started seeing signs for Fraser Range Station about 25kms out. I knew it was 2 kms off the highway. I stopped for one more break, then reached the turn. This place is full of kangaroos and I’ve also seen a couple of emus. Where I am camped, there is some grass...and about a dozen kangaroos eating the grass. They are all sizes. It’s quite fun watching them hop over the fence.

The station is a working ranch (they call it a farm). They offer a dinner (tonight is roast beef with chips and veggies and dessert). I will be eating the dinner.

I’m all by myself in the unpowered tent area (well...me and the kangaroos). A couple walking by stopped and chatted with me for awhile— Belinda, Dale, and their dog Belle. There are lots of caravans rolling in even though it’s already after 5:00. Most of the caravans try to be off the road before dark (that’s when the kangaroos like to take their chances with the cars...they generally lose—there was a fresh dead roo in the middle of the road this morning that a truckie just ran right over...I heard the thunk thunk as the wheels went over the top of it).

Tomorrow will be another long day into Norseman and the end of the Nullarbor. I’m hoping for a bit more downhill, and favorable winds.

May 31: The Last Day of the Nullarbor Did Not Disappoint

Here’s an account of my last day on the Nullarbor.

5:15am: After a much warmer night than the night before, I wake up and start packing up my stuff.

6:30: It’s light enough to head out, so off I go.

21 kilometers: I pull in to a rest area that has a toilet. It is on the edge of the Taipan (flat expanse of red dirt). The Taipan is what I expected the Nullarbor to look like. I meet Heather and Michelle, a couple of women near my age. We chat for awhile as they are cyclists and would like to tour someday.

50 kilometers: I pull back out onto the road after a short break and snack. Not long after, Heather and Michelle pass me waving and taking photos. They pull off a little further off the road and take more photos as I ride by (they tell me to keep going on up the hill, so I do). Then, they pass me again. Really nice women!

35 kilometers to go: I pull off at another rest stop. At the rest stop are Jenny and Chris who are driving a tractor and a wagon around Australia raising money for Make-a-Wish. They had passed me not long before. They invite me into the wagon for a snack of crackers and cheese, and a can of lemonade. It hits the spot! They go about 40kms/hour. We take photos, and continue on down the road.

12 kilometers to go: I see another cyclist riding toward me. His name is Karsten, and he is from Germany. He started in Perth, and is riding to Sydney. He is a young guy with a great smile and happy attitude.

101 kilometers: I arrive at the Welcome to Norseman sign. I have officially finished the Nullarbor!

105 kilometers: I check in to the Gateway Caravan Park. My day is done!

The Nullarbor was really not that difficult. I feel I was really lucky to have 9 days of tailwinds, and only a few days of strong headwinds/crosswinds. Yesterday and today, although windy, were not too bad. I did end up taking the Da Brim off today, but it still wasn’t terrible.

It’s nice to be back in a town. My food lasted quite well. I just finished off my breakfast stuff this morning. I still have dinner food and a lot of tortillas. I’m looking forward to getting some fresh fruit!

The first turn in 90 miles